Libby,
Penny and Rich go sailing………
Contact info: ra@richandrews.co.uk or phone/text +30 694 36 86 330 (Greek
Mobile)
July
2010
Vassiliki, July 30th
Back in Vassiliki, now with the “Eggs” family aboard. Henri, Simon
and Phoebe joined us last Friday in Corfu. Actually we were nearly caught out
as we had the date pegged at Saturday for their arrival. Luckily we’d got to
Corfu marina a couple of days early to wash-down (finally) and do some
maintenance and provisioning. All was well therefore.
Wild Bird has
swallowed up the Eggs quite easily, and life aboard has naturally altered in
pace. Apart from the warm pleasure of being with old friends, it’s been really
great having extra hands not only for sailing the boat but for the chores too.
Best of all Libby has one of her favourite friends all to herself for a
fortnight.
We didn’t see
any wind on the Saturday, so we motored down to Petriti
at the southern end of the island. On Sunday however, we were treated to a 35kt
nor-wester for our passage down to Paxos. Ill advisedly I shook out the second reef before we
cleared the tail of the island, having already predicted that it was likely to
get more hectic when we hit the gap between the islands. Goodness only knows
why. I knew it was wrong, but part of it was that I hadn’t actually tried
reefing/un-reefing the mainsail before, and wanted to try it out. I have to say
it’s wonderfully easy. Why then didn’t I bend another one back in when it got
really blowy? Again, I just don’t know. Sometimes I make poor decisions and
then stubbornly refuse to reconsider. I did strike the mizzen though. And
anyway, there was plenty of room to run off the wind if we’d have had to. In
the mean time, we were getting in excess of 9 knots of boat speed, with a
recorded max of 10.1. Simon was at the helm for all of the exciting stuff, and
acquitted himself in fine style, the smile never leaving his face. For Penny
and I, it was the first acid-test of the seaworthiness
of our chosen vessel. We never had cause for real concern, (other than the need
to pay more careful attention to stowage!) and she only dipped her toe-rail
into the sea a few times – not because of tenderness per se, but because we
were subjected to some 100 miles of fetch. I’m afraid nobody had a mind to find
a camera, so for visual support to this piece, please take a moment to sit in
front of your washing machine and imagine a little boat in there.
My birthday was
celebrated in Paleros and then later in Porto Spiglia.
Steve the taverna-owner gave me a bottle of Metaxa;
Penny gave me an iPod. Both are excellent gifts. My old 1st gen iPod
had been proving unreliable of late and had finally (I thought) given up the
ghost. Actually it seems to have revived itself, but
let’s face it; the iPod “touch” is a simply gorgeous machine. I’m delighted now
to be back in the 21st century with the best of both worlds – an
Android phone and an iPod player. (Neither of them however can assist me in
uploading this blog page. Anyone who knows different – please advise!)
Poor Libby
suffered a big “ow” today. We were resting by the
pool (after she’d been swimming like a veritable dolphin) when her big toe
found it’s way under the foot of a sun-bed. Then Penny
sat on it. Miraculously it appears un-broken, but what an ordeal poor thing.
The day before
our guests arrived, we were invited to a BBQ at the home of Mick and Jules
Turner. We’d had a fabulous lunch the previous day and Libby and the boys Joe
and Ben had got on very well together. Mick now runs the Sailing Holidays
operation in Corfu having been a flotilla skipper back in “my days”. I don’t
really know what I’d expected, but their house is simply magnificent. It’s a
mature property up in the hills with stunning views towards Albania and a great
big pool at the end of the gardens. Think “Gerald Durrell” and you’re there.
Needless to say they treated us to a brilliant evening, and Libby was unable to
believe life could be that good. Jules has invited her to a “sleepover” when we
return – news which for Libby couldn’t be bettered.
Sivota Mourtos
July 19th
We’re fully out
of our comfort zone now, and can be considered as “cruisers”. Up until last
week or so we’d not ventured beyond our “home turf”, that is where Penny and I
worked on charter boats, albeit not in the same years. Now we’re visiting
places and mooring up or anchoring in hitherto unknown harbours. Like many
things, the thought was worse than reality and from a practical point of view
there have been no issues. Well, with all my lovely Raymarine gear aboard, what
could possibly go wrong…..?
The Italians
have arrived. Somewhat early this year it seems. In fact I believe we’ve
remarked upon the phenomenon some weeks ago. “Italian season”, like typhoon
season in distant parts, used to be perfectly predictable. And indeed they can bring
a similar amount of chaos. A 41ft Italian motor cruiser backed up to the dock
on our port side this afternoon. A pleasant family – smiles
and happy disposition. They laid their anchor
so far across our own that they nearly got the cable on the boat on our
starboard side too. Never mind, the son and his father eventually got into
their dinghy and started trying to pluck the anchor from the sea bed with their
flimsy boathook. (Let’s face it, ALL boathooks are
flimsy these days.) Not a chance. He signalled to his Mum – fetch a mask.
“Goodness!” I exclaimed from our bows, my attention momentarily drawn away from
my ice-cold glorious beer “it’s jolly dirty in here. Don’t go swimming. Just
pull it up from the dinghy.”
“It’s too heavy”
he claimed. I made what I hope wasn’t a rude gesture by slapping my biceps and
saying something to the effect that “I’ve seen it,
it’s only about 15kg plus a bit of chain. Haul it into the dinghy and re-lay
it.”
A chorus of
Italian voices from nearby boats distracted the lad from this offer of wisdom,
and he didn’t look back in my direction after that. So I watched, painfully, as
the two chaps scrambled around for half an hour, finally managing to get the
anchor the right side of our chain, albeit just a few meters off their bow. I
bit my tongue and drained my beer. If I hadn’t just had my first shower in
nearly a week, I’d have showed him how a BRITISH yachtsman would have done it!
Meanwhile, Penny
had been attempting to shop. Being the mainland we’d reasoned, things should be
cheaper. We should stock-up. However, not only is this NOT the case, but Penny
could barely find anyone who spoke Greek, let alone English. It’s Italian or
nothing it seems. Ah well, we plan to head for Corfu tomorrow where everyone
speaks English………
The sun’s now
set over the harbour, and the village front has come alive. The tavernas are buzzing, dozens of folk are promenading past
the gang-plank and we’re….sitting in the cockpit glued to our laptops. Well
there’s free WiFi, shore power and fresh water (we’ve
run two loads of laundry), and a small-kids funfare.
Pity Libby’s crashed out after a hectic day on the water-slides! We’ve decided
the place is quite nice after-all.
I’ve been
thinking for a while on remarking how everyone we seem to meet is so agreeable
and generally good company. Sadly, I’ve missed the moment. Now the summer is
upon us, we’re finding
this to be less true. A couple of nights ago we were anchored in
a tight anchorage on Paxos. An old, battle-scared
world cruising steel yacht with a Serbian flag slipped in behind us. Then an
ugly great Italian catamaran parked beside him. At first I was amused as they
tried and tried again to get their hook in the right place. “Oh dear” I
remarked to Penny, “that’ll never work. They’re going to end up alongside the
Serbian boat – and not in a good way”. Then there was a lengthy commotion, and
it turned out the Italians were furious with the Serbian for being “in their
way”. As the steel boat swung in the fluky breeze, threatening to graunch the
side of the Cat, the Italian party lined up on the rail, shouting and
threatening and thumping the blazes out of the radar arch on the other boat.
The elderly couple retired below. They were clearly rattled, but were not
planning to budge. This infuriated the Italians and they continued to rage, as
the boats danced ever more threateningly together. Rather than deploy fenders,
they just became more and more aggressive. Finally one of them went ashore to
fetch a policeman. The policeman came and, as it turned out, must have
explained the rules to the Italian party who eventually were forced to move.
This was a really sad event, and from our viewpoint was just ugly bullying from
the larger party. Even the young kids were shouting insults and “nautical
advice” which would have been laughable had it not been so sad.
So we’re
planning to head for Corfu tomorrow. Irish Mick ran a flotilla in the 90s
alongside mine, and we’ve been great pals ever since. He now has a family too,
and runs a huge charter operation out of Corfu. It’s his day off Wednesday, and
we’re hoping to meet-up. No more drinking punch etc until we can barely stand
mind you. Now the priorities are centred around our
kids; have they enough to eat, enough suncream, are
they playing nicely…..in short we’ve grown up. That’s what happens I guess, but
I have no regrets.
Apart from being
away from our home turf, new challenges are imminent – we are looking forward
to entertaining our first guests aboard for a fortnight – a young playmate for
Libby and familiar adult company for Penny and I.
However, no more roaming around in the all-together, no more pleasing just ourselves. After that we’ll have a week alone, and then the
Laver family join us for “delivery” to Athens. Then it’ll be onwards to Turkey.
It’s no longer an extended holiday with little thought needed for passage
planning or where to find the best provisions – it’s going to become, at last,
real adventuring!
Vonitsa
– Aktio – July 12th.
Last night I
watched much of the football world-cup final from the cockpit, through
binoculars. As a non-cognoscenti I was vaguely hoping Spain
would win, mainly for our friend Bob. At
half time I made an effort to get a signal on our own TV with reasonable
success. (My arms were getting a bit tired from the weighty Steiners,
and the waiter in the taverna opposite kept
inadvertently blocking my field of vision.)
So, we got a
snowy but watchable picture from a stubby antenna which amusingly gave the best
results when it fell down behind the bookcase.
Now, having
earlier seen Bob wearing a faded red-ish-could-possibly-be-orange
football shirt, I assumed that it was the orange side for whom I should be cheering. Indeed I was quite pleased with
the first-half performance. However in the second half the black-clad team
seemed to be so much better, and I was a tad
disappointed when one of them eventually found the back of the net. (“Offside”
I silently cried.) One of the orange team members was replaced by someone
called “Van Something”. “An unusual name for a Spaniard” I mused. “Bet he gets
a right ribbing in the dressing-room” Finally the obviously useless Greek TV
network had the score all wrong. They printed up “NED – 0 ESP – 1” “Oh dear” I
thought, “some editor’s been on the Ouzo again”!
If you like football, then I hope you had a more successful and
fulfilling evening than I did! Lack of commentary apart, it must surely help if
you already recognise some of the participants?
Penny had had a
rotten night’s sleep, so this morning I took the Girl around the shops here in Vonitsa to stock up on basic provisions. Libby wrote out
the shopping list. She was very happy and chatty and charmed her way around the
shops. There’s no telling who she’ll deign to grace with a cheery “Yassoo”, but when she pays for something and says “Eferestoe”, she all but gets spontaneous applause! She
knows quite a few words now but in classic 3-year-old style there’s no telling
whether she’s going to speak up or hide in her hat. Everyone’s favourite is
when she meets another child and says “Posso laini?” (what’s your name?) (Greek
speakers please forgive the transliteration here!) It usually leads to
temporary acquisition of a playmate.
We went from the
shops to the beach where the Girl and I swam for a while. She can certainly
sustain herself now, especially in saltwater, but there’s still lots of work to
do before she can be considered a swimmer. Unfortunately I’ve discovered very
early that she won’t listen to Daddy when she’s trying to learn things. I’m
appalled, but I suppose it does get me out of teaching her to drive in coming
years. Penny arrived with cold drinks and a lovely time was had by all.
After a snack
lunch, and because we’d spent some time talking about it, Libby insisted on
going to visit the nearby ruined castle. She wouldn’t accept any of Daddy’s
wisdom as to WHY it was ruined, but declared that it was because “the Greeks
had used saltwater instead of fresh water in the
concrete”! (This is because to my certain
knowledge there’s a particularly crumbling quay we’ve visited several times
where this is indeed the case.) Libby refused to believe there was any other
explanation for the state of the castle until we got right up close, whereupon
she proclaimed “Oh Daddy, it IS built out of stone”. Sadly, after both of us
had invested a considerable amount of energy and sweat climbing the steep
winding path to the blessed place, we couldn’t get in. There was a sign
declaring that in excess of two point five million Euro had recently been spent
in (I suppose) renovations, but sweet bloomin’ tippota about what time they let people in to appreciate
it. Presumably having bought the big shiny padlock there was nothing left to
provide a notice with any USEFUL information for tourists.
Initially Libby
was a bit relieved. She’d been starting to fret as we’d got closer about the
possibility that there may still be a band of pirates lurking; locked away in dungeons, and who
might at any time break out and savagely do away with curious passing
yachtsmen. Then she decided that the princesses might just be having an
afternoon nap, and maybe we should come back later. There followed quite a
lengthy analysis of the situation which incorporated, but not exclusively so;
Pirates, Princesses, Greek authorities, Princesses’ Mummy’s and Daddy’s and so
on. It was a real pleasure actually. Penny had thoughtfully equipped Libby with
a bottle of water, and on the way down we stopped, sat on a wall in the shade
and passed it back and forth like teenagers with a bottle of beer. This, again,
is what I signed-up for!
8th July - Paleros
As I write this
at the bar of the Thalasa Hotel along the road from Vounaki, there’s a feint but discernable odour about my
person. I scrubbed and scrubbed, especially my hands, but there’s nothing known
to man that can completely remove the delicate fragrance of “toilet pump”. If
Channel were to get their products to last this long they might well go out of
business. I’m really hoping that’s the end of toilet maintenance now until the
end of the season.
Oh, yum, bar
snacks, thanks very much!
So
much for plans for a day of abstinence. The best way to get online we’ve discovered is to sit at a
bar, order a beer and get going. No, there’s no way I could order a coffee.
That just wouldn’t be right.
So it’s MY turn
to be here – a privilege won by attending to the afore
mentioned maintenance issue. It’s very very hot
again.
We hope to leave
Vounaki marina Friday morning with limited deck
caulking work completed. Tony Tuck is a perfectionist and he knows it! We tried
to talk him into a quick bodge to last until the end of the year and we NEARLY
succeeded. However, I think the work he’s doing will keep a lot of water out
that would otherwise come in.
Our great friend
Bobby Ramero has just done a photo-shoot for us. He
needs to know which picture we’d like printed on his high-tec
whatnot. So far we’ve whittled it down to a choice between just 94 awesome
photos. At the risk of indulgence, here are a tiny few:
And finally, at
rest after an exhausting (!) morning….
Sorry for the indulgence.
Penny has some text which is ALMOST ready for upload. Hey, another trip to the
bar tomorrow perhaps!
And..here it is…….
June 28th
– July 9th
The 28th
was our wedding anniversary, 7 years and not a bit itchy! We were moored in Vounaki for a few days and so Libby went into video club
from 7-10pm and we joined the “Punch” of Punch party at the Club followed by a
Gyros sitting on the beach watching the sun set. Bloody marvellous!
Last week was
series of exciting developments on the boat. For those of you who are into
boats, we have finally achieved some cosmetic improvements which definitely
make the old Bird prettier. We now have new life line covers, new dorade vent cowlings, a new mizzen lazy bag, a fixed
mainsail lazy bag, aluminium covers for the bottle-screws and a cover for the bbq! Also, we have cleaned the hull and the dinghy and
generally had a good clean up. It’s just SO much easier and quicker when Libby
is being looked after. Tony Tuck has repaired a small patch of the deck but all
the caulking and teak plugs will need to be replaced in Turkey over winter.
Hopefully our old buddy Jes Holman will be able to be
able to point us in the right direction and at least the teak itself doesn’t
need replacing.... Still, it’s a big, fairly expensive job to deal with in the
fairly near future but nevertheless, we have made massive progress this week,
until the next thing!
Paleros
has changed hugely over the years, there is now a very swish beach club down on
the front (think Thailand/Cafe del Mar/Cocktails) which has everything one
could possibly ask for including excellent grub and wi-fi.
The other bars and tavernas which have been here
forever don’t stand a chance if this place is anything to go by.
Libby has had a
ball in kids club and well and truly integrated with the staff. She will miss
Katie and Lisa terribly when we move on this week. We had a couple of very
convivial evenings with our Sunsail friends and have generally had pretty
relaxed week even including watching poor old Andy Murray go down to Nadal AGAIN!
Having not
really been cruising this week, I thought I might write a little about life on
board. When you tell everyone what you are doing, they never fail to exclaim
“oh you lucky things, it must be fantastic” Of course it is fantastic, it is an
incredible experience which we all enjoy tremendously but it definitely has its
challenges! The mundane chores of real life carry on, but in a much more
complicated manner. Laundry has become almost an obsession and I won’t bore you
with the usual toilet stories with a 3 year old on board! The other issue is
power; we have plenty of it but it has to be managed very carefully. It’s hard
to explain but imagine having to go through several thought processes to
achieve even the simplest of tasks. For example – a cup of
tea. Have we got fresh water for the kettle? Are there any other
electrical appliances on? (the kettle is energy hungry
and cannot be used at the same time as other things) Do we have milk? A
replacement could be a dinghy ride or 10 mins walk
away. Anyway, hopefully you get what I’m on about....
Persuading Libby
to be quiet and keep out of the way whilst we moor up is possibly the biggest
challenge to date. You will have read from my prior notes that we have to work
bloody hard to get “stern to” right in this boat and let’s just say that
tempers fray fairly regularly on this topic....
Also you wouldn’t believe how difficult it is to put sun cream and mosi repellent on Libby each day. It almost always ends up
in a screaming match (which I inevitably lose). Sometimes I wonder if it
wouldn’t be easier to let her to get burnt and bitten but I suppose this would
probably be worse although I do wonder if she might finally understand why I
put her through the ordeal each day!
On a more
cheerful note, the beds are bloody comfortable (the memory-foam is wonderful)
and I have every mod con I could desire. We are hopefully heading North towards Corfu tomorrow, another week has passed and
the work on the boat still isn’t finished. Hmmmm, I
did start this blog rather optimistically.
One of the pleasures of being at the Sunsail base for
Penny is bumping into people to whom she’s sold a boat! Here she is with
two complete favourites: Dr and Mrs Kaftan. They
joined us aboard for cocktails. Most enjoyable.